Breathtaking.
For any
travel junkie, this word is a cliché but one which never fails to pop up when
they are out there somewhere, lost yet ridiculously happy. So has been the case with me but only after
the trip took my breath away literally.
I was an
asthma patient as a child and the disease left its traces in the name of
wheezing in the adult me. I was this nerd for whom the word ‘travel’ existed only
in books till a college friend dragged me for a monsoon trek close by. As expected, the first 45 minutes up the
mountain were the worst moments of my life.
I got a wheezing attack and I was gasping for my breath. But luckily, I
was with a group of complete strangers who did not know me and nor did they
know that the breathlessness was a condition.
One of them
suggested that I keep my mouth shut no matter what and try to breathe with my
nose. The other asked me to bear the uneasiness for the next 40 minutes and
keep climbing without waiting for anyone. Even today after 7 years, I do not
know why I followed those suggestions so meticulously. But I am grateful that I
did because after the said 40 minutes of continuous climbing, when I looked
back at the darkish white clouds looming just a few steps beside me, I gasped.
That was the first ever wondrous moment of my life. I was alone staring at the
scenery ahead with my lungs hogging on the fresh air.
From that
moment on I got into trekking like it was nobody’s business. Happily lived
under the blanket of illusion that I crave only for the mountains and nothing
else. That’s when the next attack of the ‘breathtaking’ moment happened. This
time on an all girls trip to Darjeeling & Gangtok in December 2012. I had
never been up north of India untill then. So I had no clue about the extreme
low temperatures especially during winters.
The cold
had started affecting me right from the moment we entered Darjeeling. The
breathlessness only got worse in late evenings. But there is no joy greater than
exploring a new place on our own. We ticked off all the places we wanted to see
in Darjeeling and Gangtok with only Nathu La pass, the star of our trip to be
explored on the last day of our trip.
Now, the
journey towards Nathu La was a real challenge. Bad roads and the quick elevation
from 5000ft to 14000ft in 3 hours is a bad idea. My condition had worsened so
much so that my shameless friends had to check if I was alive by moving their
fingers below my nose. When we reached
Nathu La, the interaction with the guy at the canteen to that grueling climb of
only 90 steps to the border was all it took me to realize that I am not just
cut out for the mountains but outdoors in general.
The guy at
the canteen was an army man. I was so pissed at falling sick at such a
beautiful place that the first thing I asked this guy was, ‘aapko kyun nahi
hota ye sab jo mujhe ho raha hai?’ He just laughed and said,’Tum pehle chai
piyo, mein batata hun.’ He explained
that one needs to get acclimatized to stay comfortably at such high altitudes
and that feeling giddy and going breathless is normal. Then he noticed the
‘wheeeez’ sound of my breathing and said, ’tum yahan se apne aap akele hi baki
ki sidhiyaan chado.Bas apne aap pe bharosa rakho aur nazaaron ko dekho, aur
yaad rakho ki tumhe kuch nahi hone wala hai. Yahan tak aa gayi ho toh aur thodi
durr sahi. Wapas aate waqt yaha phir hote hue jana.’
I believed
him. I started climbing one step at a time. No amount of trekking had prepared
me for this. It was my lungs I was struggling against and not my heart. At the border we took pictures, laughed at
the chinki soldiers, spoke to the other army officials. While descending, I
started ahead of my friends slowly so that they don’t have to wait for me. I
went to that army guy again and thanked him for the encouragement. On this, all
he said was, ‘Bas chaah honi chahiye, kahin bhi jaa sakogi.’
I did not
realise the importance of that statement then but after that trip, all my treks
and trips have happened just because of that intention. I have worked on my
wheezing just so I could take in more on my subsequent trips. Madhya Pradesh,
Delhi, Kullu, Manali, Sarpass, Konkan (the entire stretch in 4 days) and around
52 treks in Maharashtra with not a hint of unease and still counting.
To stretch
the so called short story a little longer, for me more than ticking the places
off my bucket list, vagabonding is more about seeking wisdom and finding it in
some of the most unexpected places. It’s about growing to be one with nature
and staying there for a very long time to come.